If you go

- GREENLAND: For tourism information, visit www.greenland.com, www.greenland-guide.gl or www.greenlandexcursions.com, or call the Scandinavian Tourist Boards in New York, (212) 885-9700.

- WHEN TO GO: Dogsled rides take place March-early May (and north of the Arctic Circle on the west coast). May-September offers mild weather.

- WHERE TO GO: Three main destinations: South (Narssaq, Qaqortoq, Narsarsuaq); West (Sisimiut, the capital Nuuk, and the main international airport, Kangerlussuaq); and North (Ilulissat, Uummannaq, Upernavik, Qaanaaq near the Thule Air Force Base). Other destinations include Kulusuk and Tasiilaq, also known as Ammassalik, on the eastern coast, below the Arctic Circle.

- WEATHER: Fog, storms, rain or snow can abruptly transform a sunny day or disrupt transportation. In winter, temperatures can dip to minus 50 degrees. Despite the Arctic climate, summer temperatures between 41 and 59 degrees feel warmer because of the dry air. Bring sunglasses, sun block and mosquito repellent.

- GETTING AROUND: No roads connect the towns and settlements so all transportation is by air or sea. Planes and helicopters connect Kangerlussuaq and Narsarsuaq to the rest of the island, with daily flights between Kulusuk and Nuuk. Arctic Umiaq Line sails along the coast. Most coastal boats don't operate during the winter.

- LODGING: From early December to early April, Kangerlussuaq offers the all-ice Hotel Igloo Village. Other towns have comfortable hotels, youth hostels or seamens' homes. Ilulissat, Greenland's main tourist destination, has several hotels, including the Hotel Arctic, where all rooms are wi-fi.

- DINING: Greenland is a paradise for meat and fish eaters, but vegetables are sparsely served and expensive because they're imported. Try reindeer, musk oxen, salmon or other seafood, or even seal and whale, including whale blubber. Polar bear is rare.

- SHOPPING: The currency is the Danish krone; major credit cards are accepted in hotels, restaurants, cabs and souvenir shops.

- LANGUAGE: Greenlandic, an Eskimo tongue, and Danish are the official languages, but most young Greenlanders speak English.